Thursday, September 3, 2015

China: Through the Looking Glass at The Met,
Part 3 -- Manchu Robe Inspired

Left: Chanel, ca. 1930, Reconfigured Chinese robe of embroidered silk gauze 
The next section of the Anna Wintour Costume Center housed a vast display of antique Chinese imperial robes paired with modern couture. Some, like the above Chanel jacket, showed obvious direct inspiration for motifs on the fabrics. Mirrors were strategically placed, to enable viewing all sides of the couture garments.
In the center of the room, clips from Betrolucci's The Last Emperor were projected on parallel walls, paired with a looping cut from the soundtrack, "Open the Door" by Ryuichi Sakamoto.
Chinese Mantle, ca. 1917-20, Embroidered silk satin with applique of rooster feathers and silk flowers
Sketches:

Chinese Mantle, ca. 1917-20, Embroidered silk satin with applique of rooster feathers and silk flowers
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Printed silk chiffon with silk chiffon applique, silk velvet ribbon, mink
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins, fox fur
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Printed silk chiffon with silk chiffon applique, silk velvet ribbon, mink
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins, fox fur
Dries Van Noten, autumn/winter 2012/13, Wool/silk hammered satin and wool twill

Center: Chinese Festival Robe, late 19th century, Silk and metallic tapestry
Sketches:

Dries Van Noten, autumn/winter 2012/13, Wool/silk hammered satin and wool twill
John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1998/99, Embroidered silk jacquard (front and back)
John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1998/99, Embroidered silk jacquard
Right: no information, not in catalogue

Left: Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, autumn/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins
Tomorrow, I'll feature the Chinoiserie section of the exhibition, both with my sketches and photos.

Note: I relied on the exhibition catalogue China: Through the Looking Glass and The Met's website for information, especially the details about the garments. Selected images from the catalogue can be viewed on The Met's Pinterest board.

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

China: Through the Looking Glass at The Met,
Part 2 -- Qipao Inspired

This is the Qipao [cheongsam] Inspired section seen in the Anna Wintour Costume Center at The Metropolitan Museum.
Taking photographs was difficult with all the reflections and crowds of viewers, so I pulled out my sketchbook.
Sketches, left to right:
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, spring/summer 2011. Black silk duchasse satin embroidered with tassels. [see on Met's Pinterest]
Floral chiffon qipao over a black slip. circa 1920s-30s (not in catalogue)
Brown cut velvet qipao, circa 1920s-30s (not in catalogue)
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurant, fall/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins.
Qipaos worn by Hu Die (Butterfly Wu) circa 1920s-30s (not in catalogue)
Brown cut velvet qipao, circa 1920s-30s (not in catalogue)
Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurant, fall/winter 2004/5, Silk satin embroidered with sequins.
Left to right:
John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1997/98, Silk jacquard embroidered with beads [see on Met's Pinterest]
John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1997/98, Silk jacquard embroidered with beads 
Jean Paul Gautier, autumn/winter 2001/2, Lacquered silk satin and embroidered silk tulle
Tomorrow, I'll feature the Manchu Robe Inspired section of the exhibition, both with my sketches and photos.

Note: I relied on the exhibition catalogue China: Through the Looking Glass and The Met's website for information, especially for details about the garments. Selected Images from the catalogue can be viewed on The Met's Pinterest board.

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

China: Through the Looking Glass at The Met,
Part 1 -- The People's Republic

The fantastic exhibition "China Through the Looking Glass" at The Metropolitan Museum in NYC closes on September 7th. I saw it when I was in New York a couple of weeks ago and have been trying to work out how to present my findings. It's a very impressive array of fashion, art, and Chinese artifacts, scattered through multiple levels and galleries of the museum, including the Egyptian Galleries, the Chinese Galleries, and the Anna Wintour Costume Center. It is a multi-media extravaganza with garments (couture, costumes, and antique Chinese), thematically related art pieces from the Met's vast collection, and movie clips curated by director Wong Kar Wei.

One is lead to the portal tucked away amidst the Egyptian Galleries (Gallery #132, very hard to find).
This first section references the era of The People's Republic of China.
Inspired by Mao left to right:
Vivienne Tam, Dress, spring/summer 1995, Polychrome printed nylon mesh
Any Warhol, [12 versions] Mao, Acrylic and silkscreen on canvas, each 12 x 10", 1973 [?]
Vivienne Tam, "Mao Suit", spring/summer 1995, silk jacquard
Unidentified Artist (Chinese, active 1960s), retouched by Chen Shilin, Chairman Mao, Gelatin silver print, 12 x 9.75", 1964
My blurry photos don't do these garments justice --
at that point I didn't realize the "no photography" edict was not being enforced.
Vivienne Westwood, Ensemble, spring/summer 2012, cotton poplin
John Galliano for Dior, Ensemble, spring/summer 1999
 Jacket: silk shantung with red piping and gold metallic frogging, Skirt: silk jacquard
After this gallery, one is then lead to the lower level Anna Wintour Costume Center.
Once there, I pulled out my sketchbook, to help examine garment silhouette and construction.
I took photos as well, though I have found that sketching really helps one focus on what one is observing when it comes to garments. I guess it's the great training that I had at Otis, where Jack Handford, our History of Fashion instructor, insisted that we sketch during his slide presentations.

Tomorrow, I'll feature the Quipao Inspired section of the exhibition, both with my sketches and photos.

Note: I relied on the exhibition catalogue China: Through the Looking Glass and The Met's website for information, especially the details on the art and garments. Selected Images from the catalogue can be viewed on The Met's Pinterest board.